The smurf village or blue village in Andalucía

Nestled in the Serranía de Ronda, Júzcar is now seeing hordes of tourists due to its very unusual attraction... This charming pueblo blanco or white village has been turned into a striking blue village to host the launch of the new Smurf cartoon “The Smurfs 3D”!

This little traditional Andalucian sleeping village hidden in the Genal Valley within forests of sweet chestnuts and against a dramatic backdrop formed by limestone craggy outcrops, just 20 minutes south of Ronda, was thought to be the perfect place to launch Sony’s Smurf cartoon worldwide premiere. And what a fun idea! The very small population of Júzcar felt it was a great idea (they have such a great sense of humour) and agreed to have the entire village painted in blue for the duration of the summer...  Come September, the village will turn to its traditional whitewash again.

All in all, it is very surreal to walk around a complete blue village (including its church) but the colour is beautifully complemented by the contrasting splashes of colours of the geraniums and bougainvilleas. It is actually quite charming, reminiscent of Chefchaouen albeit less subtle with just one shade of blue.

It seems that The Smurfs or “Los Pitufos” has been exceedingly popular in Spain in the 80s when this cartoon first came out and they are all very enthusiastic with the new release.  So far, the inhabitants of Júzcar are not showing any signs of having the blues yet and everybody seems to be enjoying it and not minding the increasing number of people flocking to their village to see this blue wonder. Some even have asked if they could keep their house blue...  They are also going to have a craft market on Saturdays throughout the summer to make the most of this sudden influx of people.

If you fancy going to see this Smurf village for yourself, try and make it a week day as it is very crowded during the weekend, to say the least but avoid Mondays as most bar/restaurants are closed.  If you fancied making a day out of it, why not visit some of the Alto Genal villages?

Coming from Ronda, on the Ronda/San Pedro road, take the first turning on the right hand side before the Petrol station "La Ventilla" and then take the first left to go and see Parauta, a pueblo ecológico part of the Biosphere of La Sierra de las Nieves, with its artistic cobbles and the only remaining Moorish arch (Plaza de la Constitución). Follow Parking signs and park by the church as there are very limited amount of places to park in the village centre.  

Turn back onto the road you came from and at the t-junction, turn left. The next village you will be coming to is Cartajima, the highest village in Malaga province (846m). Turn left into the village and park in the car park signposted for the Hotel Castaño or on the road. It is mostly outstanding for its lovely views over the surrounding mountains and villages (Parauta and Pujerra).

Return to the road and turn left to continue to Júzcar, the Smurf village. Do also visit the newly opened Centro micológico (the mushroom centre) next to the church – it is well done and shows how rich this area is in quality mushrooms.

Then continue onto the same road to Farajan. Notice its lovely church with its well preserved Minaret (most of the churches were built onto Mosques after the Catholic Reconquest) and the particular architecture of its chimneys.

Then, continue onto the last Alto Genal village, Alpandeire, with its imposing cathedral sized pink church. Best to park at the entrance of the village as streets are very narrow. Note round bulges in houses that indicates indoor private wells. Many houses here have one.  This village is mainly famous for being the birth place of Fray Leopoldo, a well known monk who has just been sanctified by Rome. From the Fray Leopoldo view point, you can see Morocco on clear days.

Continue your journey on the same road, and you will come to the Ronda/Algeciras road. At the T-junction, turn right to get to Ronda.

However, if you would like to do a morning walk in the Genal Valley, while it's still cool before visiting the blue village, why not let me guide you? Visit the following link for more information on our guided day walks. 

I hope you will have a great day out! Let me know how it went.

New walk in Juzcar checked by heavy rain

Yesterday, I managed to escape in the morning to try and discover a path newly opened in Juzcar, a small village just outside ronda, Andalucia. It was a funny morning with clouds rolling over the southern Bermeja hills, pushed over by the Levente (south-east wind) making the sky grey and moist. It was rather warm though.

I drove to Juzcar and parked in front of the Hotel Bandolero. Had a quick chat with David and Ivan who were actually outside. Walked down in the street right in front of the Hotel and followed the concrete track down to the left. Just a few meters down, I saw a lovely field full of Narrow-leaved lupins (see photo above). The concrete path soon turns into a dirt track.

I kept following it down ignoring a track on the right. The bank sides were covered with daisies and Periwinkles in varying shades of purple. Where the track forks, I took the left track and ignored the one fenced off. This is the section that has been newly opened up. It has been widened in places, cleared, walled and some cute steps have even been added in one place (see photo on the left).

The path meanders down through Oaks, Cork Oaks and Prickly Pears, and follows the Arroyo Riachuello, a stream fuller with the heavy rain we have had over the winter, which was gushing down at the bottom of this very narrow, steep valley and could be heard from the path above.

There were a few lush green terraces along the path, carpeted with ubiquitous Periwinkle and planted with fruit trees (see photo of the orange tree and Quince tree in blossom on the left).






The path eventually narrowed and steepened down to the river Genal (see photo on the left of narrow path meandering down amonst Prikly Pears).









There is normally a bridge accros the river, but it had been totally washed away and the river was way too high and strong flowing to attempt crossing it (see photo of the river on the left)! So, after a little rest by the river, enjoying its deafening strength, I had to just turn back and retraced my steps!




While walking back up, I noticed a very distinctive creeper, Dutchman's Pipe, that is growing on the path. Apparently, its roots have been used in Spain since at least the 16th century for reducing fever. See photo on the left.





I also noticed an old tattered umbrella that had been left hanging on a lichen covered oak tree. It looks as if it has been there for a long time as it was blending extremely well with its surrounding! See photo on the left.

It will be a fantastic walk to do once the bridge has been replaced or the level of the water has come down. Maybe in the summer! Back at the Hotel Bandolero, I had a lovely coffee with Ivan before returning home. What a great start of the day!

Poem about Juzcar, Andalucia, Spain

David Stuntz wrote these 2 lovely poems during one of our walking holidays in Andalucia, based in Júzcar, and kindly emailed them to us so we could post them here.

The first poem is about the andalucian white village of Júzcar and its predominant mountain Almola and depicts vividly the area and its people.

The second is about.... me! So touching! Thank you so much David! I hope you will enjoy reading them.

David also added a fabulous poetic touch to this walking holiday by reading to us all poems from Jimenez, during our lunches in some of the lovely andalucian restaurants we walked to. Thank you very much David for sharing Jimenez poems and your own poems with us!

A Drama In One Act
Júzcar, Andalucia, May, 2009

The curtain opens to the sight of
las casas of Júzcar clinging to steep slopes,
like natural outcroppings.
The sheer limestone face of la Montaña Almola
frowns overhead, angered by centuries of pillage,
its rock quarried for walls and white-wash.

It is late afternoon and siesta is over. Long shadows
accentuate the stark whiteness of the village.
Young school girls, slim in their tight jeans,
flirt with boys, pretending not to.
Boys as lithe as matadors,
eyes intense as Flamenco dancers.

Up the narrow, winding spotless streets,
old women and grandfathers, like El Greco portraits,
gossip in doorways, beneath balconies
where wrought iron railings
support roses in full bloom.

Tension mounts as the play begins.

~

To Sandrine
So Much More Than Our Guide
Andalucia, May 2009

I recall a Booted Eagle floating
in lazy circles, hardly moving
its graceful wings, so at one with
its environment; so aware of every inch
of its terrain. Like Sandrine.
Forget the predatory aspect for the moment.

I recall three dogs, herding
a flock of goats to fresh pasture.
One Mastiff, two Spanish Water Dogs.
With broad smiles, they came to greet us,
then quickly returned to their task.
Leading and protecting. Like Sandrine.

I recall the white Asphodel, standing
tall and alone, but somehow belonging there
amongst the May bloom of Andalucia.
A seed from some foreign land, transported
by a frivolous breeze, a wandering bird.
Like Sandrine.


David Stuntz
Júzcar, Andalucia, Spain,

May 3-14, 2009

Gaelic workshop and Ceilihd in Júzcar!

Never in a million years would you imagine a Gaelic language workshop and Ceilihd happening in Júzcar, Southern Andalucia! Well it did happen and we had the pleasure to be involved in it with a late afternoon guided walk starting from above Alpandeire down to Júzcar along the dramatic limestone outcrop of Los Riscos.

This leisurely walk offered the group a very informal way of learning more Gaelic. Fiona MacKenzie and Gillebride MacMillan, prize winners and famed Gaelic singers, organised this event at the Hotel Bandolero which had become Gaelic for the occasion with Scottish flags flapping lightly under the Andalucian sun and little posters stuck everywhere showing the names of everything in Gaelic!

We had a fantastic time with Fiona and Gillebride as well as Christine from the Isle of Lewis, Ian and Mary from the UK and Josepe from Catalonia who did so well mixing Gaelic, English and Spanish! To round up the event, Fiona and Gillebride organised a Ceilihd to which we went with some friends! One of our friends, Kate McHardy, impressed us with an off the cuff Gaelic song she sang beautifully as well as a solo dance! We had the privilege to enjoy Fiona and Gillebride singing and there was plenty a dancing and singing (Gaelic as well as Spanish!), ending fantastically this Gaelic workshop.